"All but invisible, the snow leopard waits. On great cliffs across the valley bharal males fight viciously over mating rights. They neglect to eat. Many are injured. The snow leopard bides its time until nightfall when it will prey. December is freezing and bleak in the Rumbak Valley in Ladakh, Northern India. Five thousand metres up, the air contains only half oxygen of a breath taken at sea level. On the rain shadowed northern side of the Himalaya,...